Harrington jacket
When and where was this item first created, and what practical purpose did it serve?
The Harrington jacket was created by John Simons at his Ivy Shop in Richmond, London in 1964. Simons designed the jacket specifically for the emerging Mod subculture, who demanded a lightweight alternative to heavy leather jackets that could be worn over sharp suits without compromising their clean silhouette. The jacket drew inspiration from American golf windbreakers and British military surplus garments, particularly the Royal Air Force’s lightweight training jackets.
Simons named it after Rodney Harrington, the character played by Ryan O’Neal in the American television series Peyton Place, who frequently wore similar styling. The jacket’s practical purpose was to provide weather protection while maintaining the Mod aesthetic of clean lines and fitted proportions. It became essential outerwear for scooter riders navigating London’s unpredictable weather, offering wind resistance without the bulk of traditional coats.
The Harrington’s versatility allowed Mods to transition seamlessly from daytime shopping on Carnaby Street to evening club scenes in Soho. Its lightweight construction made it perfect for the Mod lifestyle of constant movement between coffee bars, record shops, and dance halls throughout London’s youth districts.
Simons named it after Rodney Harrington, the character played by Ryan O’Neal in the American television series Peyton Place, who frequently wore similar styling. The jacket’s practical purpose was to provide weather protection while maintaining the Mod aesthetic of clean lines and fitted proportions. It became essential outerwear for scooter riders navigating London’s unpredictable weather, offering wind resistance without the bulk of traditional coats.
The Harrington’s versatility allowed Mods to transition seamlessly from daytime shopping on Carnaby Street to evening club scenes in Soho. Its lightweight construction made it perfect for the Mod lifestyle of constant movement between coffee bars, record shops, and dance halls throughout London’s youth districts.
What are the key design features and construction methods of this item?
The Harrington jacket features a distinctive blouson silhouette with a fitted waist achieved through elastic or drawstring hem construction. The front closure uses a full-length zipper, typically made from metal rather than plastic, with a small stand-up collar that can be worn turned up or down. Two slash pockets sit at hip level, often with zip closures to secure contents during scooter rides.
The interior is lined with a contrasting fabric, most famously the Fraser tartan plaid in red and white, though early versions also featured solid colors or alternative plaid patterns. Raglan sleeves provide ease of movement while maintaining the jacket’s streamlined appearance. The back features a simple, unbroken panel without seaming or decorative elements, emphasizing the clean Mod aesthetic.
Construction typically employed machine stitching throughout, with French seams on higher-quality examples to prevent fraying. The collar often incorporates a small throat tab or hook closure for additional wind protection. Shoulder construction remains soft and unpadded, distinguishing it from more structured military-inspired garments.
The interior is lined with a contrasting fabric, most famously the Fraser tartan plaid in red and white, though early versions also featured solid colors or alternative plaid patterns. Raglan sleeves provide ease of movement while maintaining the jacket’s streamlined appearance. The back features a simple, unbroken panel without seaming or decorative elements, emphasizing the clean Mod aesthetic.
Construction typically employed machine stitching throughout, with French seams on higher-quality examples to prevent fraying. The collar often incorporates a small throat tab or hook closure for additional wind protection. Shoulder construction remains soft and unpadded, distinguishing it from more structured military-inspired garments.
What cultural movements and social contexts featured this item?
The Harrington jacket became the unofficial uniform of Britain’s Mod movement during the mid-1960s cultural revolution. Mods adopted the jacket as part of their rebellion against both traditional British class structures and the emerging hippie counterculture, preferring clean, continental styling over flowing or ornate garments. The jacket’s association with scooter culture proved crucial to its identity, as Vespa and Lambretta riders needed practical outerwear that complemented their sharp suits and narrow trousers.
Beyond Britain, the Harrington gained international recognition through its adoption by American Ivy League students and later by punk and skinhead subcultures seeking authentic British styling. The jacket appeared in numerous British films of the era, cementing its status as a symbol of youth rebellion and urban sophistication. Its popularity transcended music scenes, becoming adopted by football casuals, Northern Soul dancers, and various youth tribes throughout the 1970s and 1980s.
The garment’s cultural significance extended beyond fashion, representing a distinctly British approach to youth culture that emphasized sharp dressing over casual rebellion. Television and film appearances helped export British Mod culture globally, making the Harrington an international symbol of London’s swinging sixties scene.
Beyond Britain, the Harrington gained international recognition through its adoption by American Ivy League students and later by punk and skinhead subcultures seeking authentic British styling. The jacket appeared in numerous British films of the era, cementing its status as a symbol of youth rebellion and urban sophistication. Its popularity transcended music scenes, becoming adopted by football casuals, Northern Soul dancers, and various youth tribes throughout the 1970s and 1980s.
The garment’s cultural significance extended beyond fashion, representing a distinctly British approach to youth culture that emphasized sharp dressing over casual rebellion. Television and film appearances helped export British Mod culture globally, making the Harrington an international symbol of London’s swinging sixties scene.
Is this item still produced today, and how has it evolved over time?
The Harrington jacket continues production today through various manufacturers, though quality and authenticity vary significantly from the original John Simons design. Baracuta, founded in 1937, claims to have inspired the original design and produces the G9 model, which many consider the definitive Harrington jacket. Their construction maintains traditional methods including hand-finished seams and genuine Fraser tartan lining.
Ben Sherman, originally a shirt manufacturer, expanded into Harrington production during the 1970s Mod revival and continues making versions today with updated fits and fabric choices. Contemporary versions often feature synthetic materials instead of the original cotton gabardine, and machine-applied tartan linings rather than hand-sewn ones. Modern interpretations include women’s fitted versions, oversized cuts following current fashion trends, and technical fabric versions for outdoor sports.
The basic silhouette remains largely unchanged, though contemporary examples may include updated details like plastic zippers, printed rather than woven linings, and synthetic insulation. Luxury fashion houses occasionally reference the Harrington in their collections, usually reinterpreting the classic design with premium materials and updated proportions. The jacket’s enduring appeal ensures continued production, though authentic construction methods and materials become increasingly rare in mass-market versions.
Ben Sherman, originally a shirt manufacturer, expanded into Harrington production during the 1970s Mod revival and continues making versions today with updated fits and fabric choices. Contemporary versions often feature synthetic materials instead of the original cotton gabardine, and machine-applied tartan linings rather than hand-sewn ones. Modern interpretations include women’s fitted versions, oversized cuts following current fashion trends, and technical fabric versions for outdoor sports.
The basic silhouette remains largely unchanged, though contemporary examples may include updated details like plastic zippers, printed rather than woven linings, and synthetic insulation. Luxury fashion houses occasionally reference the Harrington in their collections, usually reinterpreting the classic design with premium materials and updated proportions. The jacket’s enduring appeal ensures continued production, though authentic construction methods and materials become increasingly rare in mass-market versions.
How do you identify authentic vintage versions of this item?
Authentic vintage Harrington jackets from the 1960s feature specific construction details that distinguish them from modern reproductions. Original fabrics were typically cotton gabardine in navy, black, or tan colors, with a distinctive matte finish that develops a subtle patina with age. The most reliable identifier is the interior lining, which should be genuine Fraser tartan with a red and white plaid pattern woven rather than printed onto the fabric.
Authentic examples feature brass or nickel-plated metal zippers, never plastic, with pulls that show appropriate wear patterns from decades of use. The collar construction on vintage pieces shows hand-finished edges and often displays characteristic wear along the fold lines where the collar has been repeatedly turned up. Period examples have raglan sleeves with clean, unbroken seam lines and show specific aging patterns at stress points including the elbow areas and pocket openings.
Labels should indicate British manufacture, with John Simons examples bearing his Ivy Shop labeling or early Baracuta G9 tags showing 1960s typography and construction details. Vintage examples typically measure shorter in body length than modern versions, reflecting period proportions. The elastic waistband on authentic pieces shows characteristic stretching and may have lost some elasticity, while reproduction versions often feature more durable modern elastic materials.
Authentic examples feature brass or nickel-plated metal zippers, never plastic, with pulls that show appropriate wear patterns from decades of use. The collar construction on vintage pieces shows hand-finished edges and often displays characteristic wear along the fold lines where the collar has been repeatedly turned up. Period examples have raglan sleeves with clean, unbroken seam lines and show specific aging patterns at stress points including the elbow areas and pocket openings.
Labels should indicate British manufacture, with John Simons examples bearing his Ivy Shop labeling or early Baracuta G9 tags showing 1960s typography and construction details. Vintage examples typically measure shorter in body length than modern versions, reflecting period proportions. The elastic waistband on authentic pieces shows characteristic stretching and may have lost some elasticity, while reproduction versions often feature more durable modern elastic materials.
