Krizia
Who founded this brand, when, and what was their design background?
Mariuccia Mandelli founded Krizia in Milan in 1954, starting as a small knitwear company with just two sewing machines. Born into a middle-class family in Bergamo, Mandelli had no formal fashion training but possessed an innate understanding of Italian craftsmanship and women’s desires for sophisticated clothing. She named the brand after Plato’s dialogue “Critias,” reflecting her intellectual approach to fashion.
The early years were challenging, as Mandelli worked tirelessly to establish the brand’s reputation for quality knitwear. She began by selling directly to boutiques across Italy, personally delivering her creations and building relationships with retailers. Her breakthrough came when she recognized that modern women needed clothes that could transition from day to evening, from boardroom to social events.
The early years were challenging, as Mandelli worked tirelessly to establish the brand’s reputation for quality knitwear. She began by selling directly to boutiques across Italy, personally delivering her creations and building relationships with retailers. Her breakthrough came when she recognized that modern women needed clothes that could transition from day to evening, from boardroom to social events.
What signature designs, innovations, and types of clothing is this brand most known for?
Krizia became synonymous with innovative knitwear techniques and bold animal motifs that appeared across sweaters, coats, and accessories. Mandelli revolutionized Italian knitwear by introducing complex intarsia patterns, particularly her famous animal designs including tigers, elephants, and exotic birds. These weren’t simple appliqués but intricate knitted patterns that required exceptional technical skill to execute.
The brand’s signature “animal collection” launched in the 1960s and became a status symbol among fashion-conscious women. Krizia also pioneered the concept of coordinated knitwear wardrobes, creating complete looks rather than individual pieces. The house developed innovative yarn-dyeing techniques that produced rich, saturated colors previously impossible in knitwear.
Mandelli’s designs featured architectural silhouettes with clean lines and sophisticated proportions. The brand expanded beyond knitwear to include tailored suits, evening wear, and leather goods, always maintaining the same attention to craftsmanship and innovative construction techniques that made their knitwear legendary.
The brand’s signature “animal collection” launched in the 1960s and became a status symbol among fashion-conscious women. Krizia also pioneered the concept of coordinated knitwear wardrobes, creating complete looks rather than individual pieces. The house developed innovative yarn-dyeing techniques that produced rich, saturated colors previously impossible in knitwear.
Mandelli’s designs featured architectural silhouettes with clean lines and sophisticated proportions. The brand expanded beyond knitwear to include tailored suits, evening wear, and leather goods, always maintaining the same attention to craftsmanship and innovative construction techniques that made their knitwear legendary.
What style movements is this brand associated with, and what design elements connect them to these movements?
Krizia played a pivotal role in the Power Dressing movement of the 1970s and 1980s, creating clothes that helped women navigate corporate America and professional environments with confidence. Mandelli understood that successful women needed armor-like clothing that projected authority while maintaining femininity. Her designs featured strong shoulder lines, precise tailoring, and luxurious fabrics that commanded respect in boardrooms.
The brand’s approach to Power Dressing differed from American interpretations by incorporating Italian sensuality and craftsmanship. Krizia suits featured softer construction than their Anglo-American counterparts, using superior Italian wool and silk linings. The brand’s color palette during this era favored rich jewel tones, navy, black, and cream rather than the stark black and gray associated with Wall Street power dressing.
The brand’s approach to Power Dressing differed from American interpretations by incorporating Italian sensuality and craftsmanship. Krizia suits featured softer construction than their Anglo-American counterparts, using superior Italian wool and silk linings. The brand’s color palette during this era favored rich jewel tones, navy, black, and cream rather than the stark black and gray associated with Wall Street power dressing.
Which style icons have worn this brand, and what are some notable fashion moments outside of runway shows?
Grace Kelly wore Krizia knitwear during her post-royal years, choosing the brand’s sophisticated sweaters for casual public appearances in Monaco. The Princess appreciated Krizia’s ability to create elegant yet comfortable pieces suitable for her royal lifestyle. Isabella Rossellini became a brand ambassador in the 1980s, frequently wearing Krizia’s animal-motif sweaters and tailored suits to film premieres and fashion events.
Her connection to the brand helped establish Krizia’s reputation in Hollywood and international fashion circles. Catherine Deneuve favored Krizia’s evening wear throughout the 1970s, particularly the brand’s knitted cocktail dresses that combined Italian craftsmanship with French sophistication. Fashion editor Diana Vreeland praised Krizia’s innovative use of color and texture in knitwear, featuring the brand regularly in Vogue editorials.
Her connection to the brand helped establish Krizia’s reputation in Hollywood and international fashion circles. Catherine Deneuve favored Krizia’s evening wear throughout the 1970s, particularly the brand’s knitted cocktail dresses that combined Italian craftsmanship with French sophistication. Fashion editor Diana Vreeland praised Krizia’s innovative use of color and texture in knitwear, featuring the brand regularly in Vogue editorials.
How has this brand’s style evolved over time, and what factors influenced these changes?
Krizia’s style evolved from experimental knitwear in the 1950s to sophisticated Power Dressing in the 1970s and 1980s, then adapted to changing fashion landscapes through the 1990s and beyond. The brand’s early focus on innovative knitting techniques and animal motifs established its reputation for technical excellence and whimsical sophistication. During the Power Dressing era, Mandelli expanded into tailored suiting while maintaining the brand’s commitment to superior craftsmanship and innovative construction.
The 1990s brought challenges as fashion moved toward minimalism, forcing Krizia to adapt its maximalist approach to animal prints and bold designs. The brand began incorporating more subtle animal motifs and refined its tailoring to appeal to a new generation of consumers. After Mandelli’s retirement in the early 2000s, Krizia faced ownership changes that affected its market position and design direction.
Recent revivals have attempted to capture the brand’s original spirit while updating designs for contemporary markets. The house continues to struggle with balancing its heritage of bold, technical innovation with modern fashion demands for versatility and commercial appeal.
The 1990s brought challenges as fashion moved toward minimalism, forcing Krizia to adapt its maximalist approach to animal prints and bold designs. The brand began incorporating more subtle animal motifs and refined its tailoring to appeal to a new generation of consumers. After Mandelli’s retirement in the early 2000s, Krizia faced ownership changes that affected its market position and design direction.
Recent revivals have attempted to capture the brand’s original spirit while updating designs for contemporary markets. The house continues to struggle with balancing its heritage of bold, technical innovation with modern fashion demands for versatility and commercial appeal.