Trench coat
When and where was this item first created, and what practical purpose did it serve?
The trench coat emerged in 1895 when Thomas Burberry created the gabardine waterproof fabric for British officers. However, the iconic design we recognize today crystallized during World War I in the muddy trenches of France and Belgium. British officers needed protection from harsh weather while maintaining mobility for combat operations.
The coat’s practical features served specific military functions. The shoulder epaulettes displayed rank insignia and secured equipment straps. The storm flap protected against driving rain and wind.
The belt allowed officers to carry essential gear while keeping hands free for weapons. The D-rings attached grenades, maps, and field equipment. Originally called the “Tielocken,” the coat earned its “trench” designation from frontline use.
Burberry supplied coats to British forces, while Aquascutum outfitted officers with similar designs. The coat’s length provided coverage without impeding movement through trenches. Its neutral khaki color offered camouflage in muddy battlefield conditions.
The coat’s practical features served specific military functions. The shoulder epaulettes displayed rank insignia and secured equipment straps. The storm flap protected against driving rain and wind.
The belt allowed officers to carry essential gear while keeping hands free for weapons. The D-rings attached grenades, maps, and field equipment. Originally called the “Tielocken,” the coat earned its “trench” designation from frontline use.
Burberry supplied coats to British forces, while Aquascutum outfitted officers with similar designs. The coat’s length provided coverage without impeding movement through trenches. Its neutral khaki color offered camouflage in muddy battlefield conditions.
What are the key design features and construction methods of this item?
The trench coat features a double-breasted front with ten buttons arranged in two columns of five. The wide lapels can be turned up to protect the neck from wind and rain. Storm flaps cover the shoulder areas and provide additional water resistance.
The back typically includes a half-belt or full belt with buckle closure for adjustable fit. Gun flaps cover the chest area, originally designed to protect ammunition pouches but now purely decorative. Raglan sleeves allow full arm movement and create the coat’s distinctive shoulder line.
The construction uses gabardine, a tightly woven cotton fabric that Burberry developed specifically for weather resistance. Traditional colors include khaki, navy, and beige, though black versions appeared later. The coat typically reaches mid-thigh length, providing coverage while maintaining practicality.
Wrist straps secure the sleeves when rolled up. The collar features a throat latch for additional wind protection. Quality construction includes reinforced stress points and hand-finished seams.
The back typically includes a half-belt or full belt with buckle closure for adjustable fit. Gun flaps cover the chest area, originally designed to protect ammunition pouches but now purely decorative. Raglan sleeves allow full arm movement and create the coat’s distinctive shoulder line.
The construction uses gabardine, a tightly woven cotton fabric that Burberry developed specifically for weather resistance. Traditional colors include khaki, navy, and beige, though black versions appeared later. The coat typically reaches mid-thigh length, providing coverage while maintaining practicality.
Wrist straps secure the sleeves when rolled up. The collar features a throat latch for additional wind protection. Quality construction includes reinforced stress points and hand-finished seams.
What cultural movements and social contexts featured this item?
World War I transformed the trench coat from military equipment into a symbol of sophistication and authority. Returning officers wore their coats in civilian settings, creating immediate associations with heroism and leadership. The coat became standard attire for businessmen, journalists, and professionals who wanted to project competence and reliability.
Hollywood embraced the trench coat in the 1940s, with Humphrey Bogart’s iconic performance in “Casablanca” cementing its romantic mystique. The coat appeared in countless film noir movies, where its dramatic silhouette and upturned collar created an air of mystery and danger. By the 1960s, the trench coat had become unisex fashion, worn by both men and women as a symbol of modern sophistication.
Fashion designers began experimenting with the basic design, creating variations in different fabrics and colors. The coat’s association with detectives, spies, and journalists gave it cultural cache beyond mere functionality. Its presence in fashion magazines and on movie stars elevated it from practical outerwear to luxury fashion statement.
Hollywood embraced the trench coat in the 1940s, with Humphrey Bogart’s iconic performance in “Casablanca” cementing its romantic mystique. The coat appeared in countless film noir movies, where its dramatic silhouette and upturned collar created an air of mystery and danger. By the 1960s, the trench coat had become unisex fashion, worn by both men and women as a symbol of modern sophistication.
Fashion designers began experimenting with the basic design, creating variations in different fabrics and colors. The coat’s association with detectives, spies, and journalists gave it cultural cache beyond mere functionality. Its presence in fashion magazines and on movie stars elevated it from practical outerwear to luxury fashion statement.
Is this item still produced today, and how has it evolved over time?
Modern trench coats maintain the essential design elements while incorporating contemporary materials and construction techniques. Burberry continues producing traditional gabardine versions alongside modern interpretations using technical fabrics with enhanced weather resistance. Contemporary manufacturers offer synthetic materials that provide similar protection with easier care requirements.
Fashion brands have expanded the color palette beyond traditional neutrals, introducing bold colors and patterns while preserving the classic silhouette. The basic construction remains unchanged, though modern versions often include removable linings for versatility across seasons. Designer interpretations feature luxury materials like leather, silk blends, and technical textiles.
Fast fashion retailers produce affordable versions that capture the aesthetic while using lower-cost materials and simplified construction. The coat’s length has been adapted for different occasions, from cropped versions for casual wear to full-length styles for formal settings. Contemporary trench coats often include modern conveniences like interior pockets for electronic devices and improved waterproof treatments.
High-end manufacturers still hand-finish seams and use traditional construction methods, while mass-market versions rely on machine production. The enduring popularity ensures continued production across all price points and quality levels.
Fashion brands have expanded the color palette beyond traditional neutrals, introducing bold colors and patterns while preserving the classic silhouette. The basic construction remains unchanged, though modern versions often include removable linings for versatility across seasons. Designer interpretations feature luxury materials like leather, silk blends, and technical textiles.
Fast fashion retailers produce affordable versions that capture the aesthetic while using lower-cost materials and simplified construction. The coat’s length has been adapted for different occasions, from cropped versions for casual wear to full-length styles for formal settings. Contemporary trench coats often include modern conveniences like interior pockets for electronic devices and improved waterproof treatments.
High-end manufacturers still hand-finish seams and use traditional construction methods, while mass-market versions rely on machine production. The enduring popularity ensures continued production across all price points and quality levels.
How do you identify authentic vintage versions of this item?
Authentic vintage trench coats display specific construction details that distinguish them from modern reproductions. Pre-1950s examples feature hand-sewn buttonholes and reinforced seams using period-appropriate thread weights. Original gabardine fabric has a distinctive tight weave and specific hand feel that develops character with age.
Vintage coats show natural wear patterns at stress points including belt buckles, cuff edges, and button areas. Authentic Burberry pieces from the 1920s through 1940s feature the original check lining pattern in specific proportions and color combinations that differed from later versions. Hardware should show appropriate aging and patina consistent with the coat’s claimed age.
Early examples often have brass or bronze-finished buckles and D-rings rather than modern plated metals. The button arrangement and spacing follow precise measurements from original military specifications. Vintage labels provide dating clues through typography, language, and manufacturer information that changed over decades.
Authentic pieces display consistent construction quality throughout, with even stitching and proper seam finishing. The coat’s proportions reflect period tailoring standards, with specific measurements for sleeve length, body width, and belt placement that differ from contemporary fits.
Vintage coats show natural wear patterns at stress points including belt buckles, cuff edges, and button areas. Authentic Burberry pieces from the 1920s through 1940s feature the original check lining pattern in specific proportions and color combinations that differed from later versions. Hardware should show appropriate aging and patina consistent with the coat’s claimed age.
Early examples often have brass or bronze-finished buckles and D-rings rather than modern plated metals. The button arrangement and spacing follow precise measurements from original military specifications. Vintage labels provide dating clues through typography, language, and manufacturer information that changed over decades.
Authentic pieces display consistent construction quality throughout, with even stitching and proper seam finishing. The coat’s proportions reflect period tailoring standards, with specific measurements for sleeve length, body width, and belt placement that differ from contemporary fits.
