Platform shoes

When and where was this item first created, and what practical purpose did it serve?

Platform shoes emerged in ancient Greece and Rome as practical footwear called kothorni, worn by actors to increase their height and commanding presence on stage. These elevated shoes served a dual purpose of distinguishing characters by social status and making performers more visible to audiences in large amphitheaters. The concept traveled through history, appearing in various forms across cultures.

In 16th century Europe, chopines became fashionable among Venetian courtesans and wealthy women, sometimes reaching dangerous heights of up to 20 inches. Japanese geta and okobo served similar elevating functions while protecting feet from mud and snow. The modern platform shoe was reborn in 1930s Hollywood when designer Salvatore Ferragamo created cork-soled wedges for actress Judy Garland, combining height with stability.

What are the key design features and construction methods of this item?

Platform shoes feature thick soles that extend under the entire foot, creating elevation through layered materials rather than angled heels alone. The sole construction typically uses cork, wood, rubber, or synthetic materials built up in layers and covered with matching or contrasting materials. Key design elements include dramatic height ranging from two to eight inches, with the platform extending from toe to heel in varying thicknesses.

The upper shoe construction often features bold materials like patent leather, metallic finishes, or exotic skins that complement the dramatic sole. Ankle straps became essential for security given the elevated height, while toe shapes varied from rounded to extremely pointed depending on the era. Construction methods required reinforced shanks to support the wearer’s weight distribution across the extended platform.

Many designs incorporated decorative elements like studs, chains, or contrasting piping to emphasize the shoe’s rebellious nature. The platform’s width and shape directly influenced walking mechanics, requiring wearers to adapt their gait and posture to maintain balance while achieving the desired towering effect.

What cultural movements and social contexts featured this item?

Platform shoes became the defining footwear of 1970s glam rock culture, worn by iconic musicians like David Bowie, Elton John, and members of KISS who used extreme height to create otherworldly stage personas. The glam rock movement embraced theatrical excess and gender-bending aesthetics, making platforms perfect for challenging traditional masculinity and femininity through fashion. These shoes represented liberation from conservative 1950s and 1960s fashion norms, allowing both men and women to literally and figuratively rise above conventional expectations.

The gay liberation movement adopted platforms as symbols of pride and visibility, while the emerging disco scene made them essential for commanding attention on dance floors. Platform shoes connected to the broader countercultural rejection of establishment values, with their impractical height serving as deliberate provocation against sensible footwear traditions. Studio 54 and other legendary nightclubs became showcases for increasingly elaborate platform designs.

Is this item still produced today, and how has it evolved over time?

Contemporary platform shoes maintain the basic elevated sole concept while incorporating modern materials and construction techniques that improve comfort and durability. Today’s platforms feature lightweight synthetic materials, cushioned insoles, and ergonomic design elements that make extended wear more feasible than their 1970s predecessors. Major fashion houses regularly incorporate platforms into their collections, from Prada’s minimalist interpretations to Versace’s maximalist designs that echo the original glam rock aesthetic.

Street fashion has embraced platforms through various subcultures including goth, punk revival, and contemporary drag performance communities. Modern manufacturing allows for more precise weight distribution and ankle support systems that reduce the physical strain associated with extreme height. Designer collaborations with athletic brands have created platform sneakers that blend comfort technology with fashion-forward elevation.

The rise of social media has fueled renewed interest in statement footwear, making platforms popular among influencers seeking Instagram-worthy looks. However, contemporary designs often prioritize wearability over the pure theatrical impact that defined the original 1970s movement, reflecting changed lifestyle demands and safety consciousness.

How do you identify authentic vintage versions of this item?

Authentic 1970s platforms feature specific construction details that distinguish them from modern reproductions. Original platforms used natural materials like cork, wood, and leather in their sole construction, creating distinctive aging patterns where cork crumbles at stress points and leather develops characteristic cracking along flex lines. Vintage platform soles show uneven wear patterns that reflect the period’s less sophisticated weight distribution technology.

Authentic pieces feature hand-finished details like hand-stitched welting and hand-applied decorative elements that show slight irregularities absent in machine-made reproductions. Period-appropriate hardware includes specific brass or chrome buckles and D-rings that develop particular patinas over time. Original platforms often carry maker’s marks from legendary manufacturers like Charles Jourdan, Terry de Havilland, or Kork-Ease that can be verified through fashion archives.

Vintage uppers show aging appropriate to their materials, with patent leather developing fine crackling and suede showing worn nap patterns in predictable stress areas. The proportional relationships in authentic pieces reflect 1970s foot shape assumptions, often appearing narrower and more pointed than contemporary interpretations designed for modern foot measurements and comfort expectations.
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