Asscher Cut
When did this style emerge, and what cultural influences shaped its development?
The Asscher cut emerged in 1902 when Joseph Asscher of the Royal Asscher Diamond Company developed this revolutionary square step cut in Amsterdam. The technique built upon centuries of Dutch diamond cutting expertise, with the Asscher family’s workshop becoming the epicenter of innovation. Joseph’s breakthrough came from studying how light traveled through emerald cuts, leading him to create a square version with cropped corners and deeper pavilions.
The cut gained immediate recognition when the Asscher company was chosen to cleave the legendary 3,106-carat Cullinan diamond in 1908. This commission elevated the family’s status to royal warrant holders and established the Asscher cut as the premier choice for sophisticated clientele. The original patent protected the precise mathematical proportions until 1910.
Dutch cutting houses closely guarded their techniques, with master cutters training for decades to achieve the perfect balance of fire and brilliance. The Asscher workshop’s meticulous approach meant each stone required weeks of careful planning before the first cut was made.
The cut gained immediate recognition when the Asscher company was chosen to cleave the legendary 3,106-carat Cullinan diamond in 1908. This commission elevated the family’s status to royal warrant holders and established the Asscher cut as the premier choice for sophisticated clientele. The original patent protected the precise mathematical proportions until 1910.
Dutch cutting houses closely guarded their techniques, with master cutters training for decades to achieve the perfect balance of fire and brilliance. The Asscher workshop’s meticulous approach meant each stone required weeks of careful planning before the first cut was made.
What are the defining characteristics and techniques that make this style distinctive?
The authentic Asscher cut features a square outline with deeply cropped corners that create an octagonal appearance when viewed from above. The cut displays 58 facets arranged in concentric squares that create a distinctive hall of mirrors effect when properly executed. The pavilion depth measures significantly deeper than modern cuts, typically 65 to 75 percent of the girdle diameter.
This depth creates exceptional brilliance but requires stones with perfect clarity since inclusions become magnified. The table measures smaller than contemporary cuts, usually 60 to 65 percent of the total width. Crown angles remain steep at 40 to 42 degrees, while the pavilion angles measure precisely 41 degrees.
The culet appears as a small octagonal facet rather than a point. Step cutting creates broad flashes of light rather than the scattered sparkle of brilliant cuts. Authentic vintage Asscher cuts show hand-polished facets with slight irregularities that machine cutting eliminated.
The girdle remains thin and unpolished, following early 20th century practices. These proportions create the mesmerizing windmill pattern visible through the table when viewed directly above the stone.
This depth creates exceptional brilliance but requires stones with perfect clarity since inclusions become magnified. The table measures smaller than contemporary cuts, usually 60 to 65 percent of the total width. Crown angles remain steep at 40 to 42 degrees, while the pavilion angles measure precisely 41 degrees.
The culet appears as a small octagonal facet rather than a point. Step cutting creates broad flashes of light rather than the scattered sparkle of brilliant cuts. Authentic vintage Asscher cuts show hand-polished facets with slight irregularities that machine cutting eliminated.
The girdle remains thin and unpolished, following early 20th century practices. These proportions create the mesmerizing windmill pattern visible through the table when viewed directly above the stone.
Which fashion movements and social trends prominently featured this style?
Edwardian high society embraced the Asscher cut as the ultimate expression of refined taste and technical mastery. The geometric precision appealed to an era fascinated with engineering marvels like the Eiffel Tower and steamships. Wealthy Americans traveling to Europe discovered the cut through exclusive Parisian jewelers who showcased the latest Dutch innovations.
The clean lines complemented the period’s architectural revival movements and the growing appreciation for mathematical beauty in design. European royalty adopted the cut for important commissions, with several crown jewels featuring prominent Asscher cut diamonds. The cut’s sophisticated appearance aligned perfectly with the era’s formal dress codes and elaborate jewelry suites.
High-profile engagements featured Asscher cut solitaires set in platinum, establishing a tradition among social elites. The technical difficulty of cutting these stones made them status symbols, as only the wealthiest clients could afford the premium pricing. Fashion magazines began featuring the cut in editorial spreads, introducing the style to middle-class readers who aspired to aristocratic elegance.
The clean lines complemented the period’s architectural revival movements and the growing appreciation for mathematical beauty in design. European royalty adopted the cut for important commissions, with several crown jewels featuring prominent Asscher cut diamonds. The cut’s sophisticated appearance aligned perfectly with the era’s formal dress codes and elaborate jewelry suites.
High-profile engagements featured Asscher cut solitaires set in platinum, establishing a tradition among social elites. The technical difficulty of cutting these stones made them status symbols, as only the wealthiest clients could afford the premium pricing. Fashion magazines began featuring the cut in editorial spreads, introducing the style to middle-class readers who aspired to aristocratic elegance.
What notable designers, jewelers, and style icons are most associated with this style?
Joseph Asscher revolutionized diamond cutting and established his family’s legacy as the premier diamond house in Europe. His workshop trained master cutters who later established their own houses across Amsterdam’s diamond district. Cartier became the first major international jeweler to exclusively feature Asscher cuts in their high jewelry collections, creating iconic pieces for clients like the Duchess of Windsor.
Jacques Cartier personally traveled to Amsterdam to secure the finest stones for his most important commissions. Tiffany & Co. recognized the cut’s potential and established a direct relationship with the Asscher workshop to import stones to America.
American socialite Elizabeth Taylor owned several important Asscher cut pieces, including a 33-carat engagement ring that sparked widespread interest in the style. The Russian royal family commissioned elaborate parures featuring graduated Asscher cuts before the 1917 revolution. French jewelry houses like Boucheron and Van Cleef & Arpels incorporated the cuts into their Art Deco designs during the 1920s.
Jacques Cartier personally traveled to Amsterdam to secure the finest stones for his most important commissions. Tiffany & Co. recognized the cut’s potential and established a direct relationship with the Asscher workshop to import stones to America.
American socialite Elizabeth Taylor owned several important Asscher cut pieces, including a 33-carat engagement ring that sparked widespread interest in the style. The Russian royal family commissioned elaborate parures featuring graduated Asscher cuts before the 1917 revolution. French jewelry houses like Boucheron and Van Cleef & Arpels incorporated the cuts into their Art Deco designs during the 1920s.
What should you look for when identifying authentic vintage examples, and does this style influence modern jewelry?
Authentic vintage Asscher cuts display the distinctive deep pavilion and small table proportions that create exceptional light performance. Look for the characteristic octagonal outline with deeply beveled corners rather than sharp points. Original stones show hand-polished facet surfaces with subtle irregularities that machine cutting eliminated after 1960.
The girdle remains thin and unpolished, reflecting early cutting practices before modern finishing techniques. Examine the culet carefully, as authentic pieces feature a small octagonal facet rather than the pointed culet of later cuts. Vintage settings typically use platinum with milgrain detailing and geometric mounting styles characteristic of the Edwardian and Art Deco periods.
Contemporary designers like Cathy Waterman and Neil Lane have revived interest in Asscher cuts by incorporating them into modern engagement ring designs. Luxury brands including Harry Winston and Graff regularly feature Asscher cuts in their high jewelry collections. The Royal Asscher Company continues to cut diamonds using updated versions of the original proportions, offering both vintage-inspired and modern interpretations.
The girdle remains thin and unpolished, reflecting early cutting practices before modern finishing techniques. Examine the culet carefully, as authentic pieces feature a small octagonal facet rather than the pointed culet of later cuts. Vintage settings typically use platinum with milgrain detailing and geometric mounting styles characteristic of the Edwardian and Art Deco periods.
Contemporary designers like Cathy Waterman and Neil Lane have revived interest in Asscher cuts by incorporating them into modern engagement ring designs. Luxury brands including Harry Winston and Graff regularly feature Asscher cuts in their high jewelry collections. The Royal Asscher Company continues to cut diamonds using updated versions of the original proportions, offering both vintage-inspired and modern interpretations.
